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Bi-Level (Split-Entry) Home

Also known as: Split-entry, Split-foyer, Raised ranch, Raised bungalow

Stories2
Basementdaylight, partial
GarageOften Attached
Typically Built:Late 1950s–1980s (continued into the 1990s in many suburbs)

A Canadian bi-level (split-entry) is defined by a mid-landing foyer: the front door opens to a small landing with stairs immediately up to the main floor and down to a raised lower level. Because that lower level often sits only about 3–4 feet below grade, these homes typically have large basement windows and deep window wells. Built widely from the late 1950s through the 1980s, bi-levels often combine cantilevered floor overhangs, a rim joist close to snow/splash zones, and complex foundation steps—conditions that increase rodent entry, carpenter ant risk, and moisture-driven pest pressure when air sealing and drainage are weak.

Common Pests in This House Type

Construction Deep-Dive

Split-Entry Junction: Movement and Air Leakage

A true bi-level is defined by its split-entry landing. That “step” in the building mass usually means more seams: changes in foundation height, changes in framing, and multiple rim-joist/sill-plate lines.

Why it matters for pests: - Seasonal soil movement and frost heave can open cracks where the entry section meets the main foundation. - In heavy clay regions, freezing soil can bond to the foundation (“adfreezing”) and contribute to stair-step cracks near lower window corners. - The stack effect pulls air in low and pushes it out high, turning small gaps into scent trails that rodents follow.

What to look for: - Cracks at the foundation step and around lower-level window corners - Gaps at siding-to-foundation transitions near the entry - Unsealed service penetrations, especially between garage and living space

Construction Terms:split-entry, frost heave, adfreezing, stack effect, foundation step
Cantilevered Floors (Overhangs)

To gain square footage without enlarging the foundation, many bi-levels extend floor joists past the foundation wall (a cantilever). The underside is boxed in with a soffit, creating a sheltered cavity.

Why it matters for pests: - The concrete-to-soffit corner forms a protected “rodent shelf” that guides mice along the perimeter until they find a gap. - Fiberglass batts can sag, leaving warm air pockets that become ideal nesting bays. - Air leakage through the cantilever increases condensation and wood decay, making materials easier to chew and excavate.

Best-practice approach: - Air-seal and insulate the entire cantilever bay (closed-cell spray foam is common when appropriate) - Harden seams with metal flashing or 1/4-inch hardware cloth where gnawing is likely - Keep soffit panels intact and penetrations tight

Construction Terms:cantilever, joist bay, air sealing, closed-cell spray foam, hardware cloth
Window Wells and Moisture Ecology

Because the lower level sits close to grade, bi-levels rely on deep window wells to bring in light. Over time, wells collect leaves and silt; stone can clog and the well can hold water during snowmelt and heavy rain.

Why it matters for pests: - Wet, debris-filled wells support mold and decomposing organics that attract springtails and sowbugs. - When conditions change (flooding, drying, freezing), these pests migrate toward the easiest exit—often the window frame, weep holes, or tiny foundation gaps. - Persistent wetting against the foundation also raises indoor humidity and increases carpenter ant risk.

What helps: - Keep wells clean and filled with washed clear stone (not soil or mulch) - Confirm the bottom of the well drains (to weeping tile or a dedicated drain) - Use fitted covers that keep debris out while allowing the window to function as designed

Construction Terms:window well, weeping tile, clear stone, hydrostatic pressure, spring freshet

Prevention Tips

  • Inspect cantilevered overhangs and seal gaps at the soffit-to-foundation seam (metal flashing or 1/4-inch hardware cloth where needed)
  • Air-seal and upgrade insulation in cantilever/rim-joist areas to reduce heat loss, condensation, and nesting voids
  • Keep window wells clear of leaves and silt; use washed clear stone instead of soil or mulch
  • Install fitted window well covers to keep debris out and reduce moisture-driven pest pressure
  • Confirm window well drainage is functional (weeping tile connection or dedicated drain)
  • Seal cracks at foundation steps and around lower-level windows with flexible products appropriate for moving foundations
  • Treat the attached garage as exterior: maintain door seals and seal utility penetrations into the home
  • Add door sweeps and weatherstripping at split-entry and garage-to-house doors
  • Repair loose soffit/fascia panels and keep corner trim and vent openings tight and screened
  • Manage lower-level humidity and fix leaks early to reduce carpenter ant and moisture-pest pressure

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